makeup

Q: What's the difference between a setting powder and a finishing powder?

A: Yes, there is a difference between a setting powder and a finishing powder! Setting powder is what you use to 'set' liquid or creme foundations. This helps to prevent product transfer from the skin to other things such as clothes, or your phone, as well as reducing the tacky feeling some foundations may leave behind. Setting powder is particularly important for those with more oily skin, as many setting powders contain mattifying agents to help control excess shine.

Setting powders come in both pressed and loose versions, and whichever you choose is simply a matter of personal preference. Pressed powders are typically a bit more travel friendly, but many brands now, such as Priia, have nifty resealable sifters to prevent loose powder flying everywhere after you take the container out of your purse or makeup bag. Setting powders are typically translucent or sheerly tinted, but if you still need more coverage than your creme or liquid foundation provides, you can opt for a powder foundation to set your makeup instead.

Favourite Setting Powders: hp01Priia HydraPrime Oil-Control Powder: $18

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Glo Minerals Perfecting Powder: $37

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Glo Minerals Luxe Setting Powder: $42

Finishing powders, in contrast, is intended to go on top of setting powder and all other makeup! Most finishing powders have a high level of silica, which refracts light and helps pores and imperfections appear smoother and smaller. Acne safe brands such as Priia, opt for rice, silk, and pearl powders to achieve the same luminescent effect without potentially clogging sensitive pores. Some finishing powders are translucent, and some are sheerly tinted.

Be careful with finishing powders however! When used incorrectly, they can cause flashback in certain lighting situations (think of all the photos of celebrities with white splotches across their face- misuse of finishing powder). Using a finishing powder to set your makeup can backfire under a camera flash, so be sure you are using your beauty arsenal properly. When used correctly, finishing powders decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as pores.

 

Favourite Finishing Powders:

bfpPriia BEHAVE Finishing Powder: $18

loose-matte-finishing-powder_1Glo Minerals Loose Matte Finishing Powder: $35 (no resealable sifter)

 

 

Silk/ Mink Lash Extensions Aftercare & FAQ

Silk or mink lash extensions have become ever more popular in the last 3-5 years. New techniques, such as Russian volume, allow even more variations of style and fullness to the lash line. The lash extensions are very different than the typical cluster or flare individual lashes. Cluster or flare (also called tab) lashes are a group of 6-12 or so false lashes, grouped in a cluster, typically with a knot at the base to hold the together (knotless flares are glued together at the base). When applied, this cluster of 6-12 lashes spans several of your natural lashes.

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When your lashes naturally shed (4-12 week lash cycle) with cluster or flare lashes, they are often still attached to natural lashes that are still firmly attached to your lash line. However, the weight of the cluster can begin to pull at those natural lashes, potentially damaging the follicle or pulling healthy natural lashes out. Using unapproved products for the eye, such as hair bonding glue, can greatly worsen these effects and cause excessive balding of the lash line.

Pictured below are examples of what can happen when using glues NOT approved for the lash line! Healthy natural lashes being pulled out by the root! This can also happen with any properly done set of cluster or flare lashes if you do not have them properly removed when they start to loosen!

Silk or mink lash extensions however, are applied one single false lash to one single natural lash for the Classic technique. The Russian volume technique is done by applying several micro fine lashes to one single natural lash. The important difference here is that since the natural lash is singled out for the lash extensions process, as your lashes naturally shed according to your lash growth cycle, they can freely fall out without affecting any other natural lash. This MAJOR difference results in fuller, healthier natural lashes as there is no potential to weigh down your hair follicles on your lash line (unless your lash tech gives you a lash too thick for your own natural lash!)

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Another benefit of silk or mink lash extensions is the almost infinite customization options! Even within the realm of Classics, you have a variety of lash options, with different lengths, curls, and diameters. With the Russian volume technique, you can stack 2 lashes onto a single lash (2D), or maybe 3 lashes on a single natural lash (3D). I've seen all the way  to even a 7D lash set!!!

J- curl is closest to the majority of actual lashes for the most natural looking set of extensions. B-curl mimics the look of using a lash curler. A C-curl is most popular amongst my own clients, and creates the look of permed lashes. D-curls create doll like lashes and are typically used for special occasions or for people with extremely curly natural lashes.

3-5 mm are typically used for lower lash extensions, which don't tend to last as long as upper extensions. 6-8 mm are typically used for the inner and/or outer corners of the eyes and 9-12 mm are typically used for the center of the lid. Some clients opt for longer lashes on the outer corner for a cat eye effect, but the 13-20 mm can be too much for many people's natural lash and is best used as a special occasion lash instead of for everyday wear unless you already have fairly long thick lashes to begin with.

.15 and .20 are the most popular thicknesses for lash extensions in my experience. Very few people have lashes strong enough to hold .25 or greater lashes without causing potential damage to their natural lashes.

.05 - .12 are the thicknesses used for Russian volume lashes. The lighter, thinner lash allows for the use of multiple lashes on your natural lash without weighing it down.

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AFTERCARE

The eyelash cycle is approximately four to twelve weeks.  Do not be alarmed if some of your lashes fall out quickly (they most likely were at the end of their cycle).  The majority of extensions will stay through a complete cycle if you follow these guidelines:

Your natural eyelashes should not get wet for a minimum of two hours;  48 hours would be ideal to allow the adhesive properly to bond to a dry eyelash (soggy eyelashes do not make for a good adhesion).  A dry washcloth can be rolled up and placed over your brows when you shower to protect your extensions from becoming totally saturated.

Do not use regular or waterproof mascara.  Most brands of mascara contain chemical properties and oils that will break down the adhesive.  Removing mascara from your lashes can cause the extensions to fall off prematurely as well.  If you want to further enhance your lash extensions, we have a specially formulated eyelash extension mascara that is ideal for coating your extensions.  Certain waterproof eyeliner can have the same effect. Ask your lash stylist for more information.

Take special care around the eye area when cleansing your face. Gently cleanse the eye area and do not scrub or tug your eyes.  Avoid any type of oil-based product around the eyes.  Again, the oils will break down the adhesive and cause the extensions to fall off prematurely.  Resuming with normal activities is ok (i.e. - face washing).  When possible, it is best to wait up to 12 hours.

Never use a clamp-style eyelash curler on your extensions.  This can permanently damage not only the extensions, but your natural eyelashes as well.  Eyelash combs/spoolies are great for grooming your lashes every morning and a new spoolie is provided to each client with a new set of extensions.

By avoiding extreme variation of heat, humidity, and cold weather (i.e. – hot showers, saunas, zero degree weather), your extensions can last longer.  Normal activities like swimming, can resume after the lash glue has set.

Be sure to schedule a fill appointment every 2 to 3 weeks for timely touch-ups.  This will keep your lashes looking full and natural, indefinitely.  Fills in the first week are complimentary.

Do not attempt to remove the extensions yourself.  Have them removed by a licensed esthetician.

Beauty Sanitation Part 2: How to Clean Your Makeup Brushes

Keeping your makeup brushes clean is one of the most important things a makeup wearer can do to keep your skin healthy, prevent breakouts, and extend the life of your makeup. Oils from your skin, as well as dead skin cells can build up in the bristles of your makeup brushes, and this can be redeposited into your skin and onto the surface of your makeup. If you have ever had difficulty getting a powder product onto your brush or applicator, and perhaps noticed a shiny spot in the middle of your powder, then you have witnessed first hand what is referred to as 'glazing' of your product. This happens when oil and skin cells are transferred from your brush or applicator and build up to form a layer that makes it difficult to get to the product underneath. This can be solved by taking a paper towel or clean mascara spoolie and gently exfoliating and removing the surface layer.

Preventing this from happening in the first place is just as simple!

Simply wet your brush under lukewarm water, and apply a bit of your chosen brush shampoo to the tips. Swirl the brush in the palm of your hand until the suds are free of color and rinse your brush. Lay flat to dry with the bristles hanging over the edge of the table or counter. Do NOT dry brushes upright as the water will seep into the ferrule and handle of the brush, causing brush hairs to loosen and wood handled brushes to warp and crack.

There are many popular brush shampoos on the market. Some of my favorites are the: E.L.F Brush Shampoo, $3 at Eyes Lips Face and Pure Goat Milk Solid Brush Shampoo: English Lavender (they also have other scents and vegan versions!), $18. London Brush Company.

In a pinch, I will even use 3 parts Dawn original dish soap to 1 part Extra Virgin Olive Oil blended as a brush shampoo.

If you wear makeup almost everyday, you should definitely be washing your brushes at least once a week, if not more often. If you only wear makeup maybe once or twice a week, you should still wash your brushes about every two weeks, or monthly at MINIMUM.

 

xoxo,

Ashlie Lauren

Halloween Makeup Safety

It's nearing that time of the year when people all over dress up and transform themselves into monsters, goblins, fairies, and more as part of their fall celebrations. However, there are some things you should definitely be aware of before you spackle on the Halloween themed makeup to complete your costume to make sure your holiday adornments don't become your personal horror story. These tips are especially helpful if you are planning to DIY with your Halloween makeup, but so called 'professionals' trying to cut corners can also put you at risk.

  1. Acrylic Paint Just because it says 'non-toxic,' that doesn't mean its safe to go on your skin! (House paint is even worse by the way!) Acrylic paint for one does not allow the skin to breathe and also contains ingredients such as nickel, which cause skin reactions with prolonged contact in many people. Because it is a plastic and dries stiff, it may also remove the top layers of skin upon removal, particularly for those with sensitive skin or young children.
  2. Craft Glitter The same glitter you find in Micheal's  or Hobby Lobby should not be the same glitter you would find in a professional makeup artist or face painters kit! Craft store glitter is much larger and is cut in a way that gives it very sharp edges. This can injure you if it gets in your eyes or is inhaled through your airways. Cosmetic grade glitter is much smaller and is cut with rounded edges so as to minimize injury in case of contact with sensitive mucus membranes.
  3. Sharing Makeup Sharing makeup should always be a no! Even with close friends or family. Unless a product dispenses sanitarily, such as with a pump, you could be sharing not only makeup, but also skin cells, germs, and more! Mascara and lip gloss or lip stick are the worse offenders and can cause pink eye, staph, or herpes infections. Professional artists should be removing product from the compact with a  sanitized spatula and work from a separate surface to keep you safe.
  4. Cleaning Brushes Brushes and sponges should be thoroughly shampooed and left to dry between clients, but sometimes this may not always be possible. This is why there are several wonderful brush cleaners on the market that properly disinfect brushes and dry quickly without harmful residue. Alcohol, although it may seem like a great choice for disinfecting brushes, for one does not remove product residue properly, and according to the State Cosmetology Board, is considered an ineffective sanitizer. It also may cause pain or discomfort when used near the eye area if it has not dried fully.